Golden light at Gold Harbour

By Jane - March 08, 2020

Gold Harbour not called so because we were there when the light was indeed golden

Day 10 - March 8 2020

Gold Harbour

Gentoos molting

I forget that they are birds until they lie down like a duck

There are bullies in all parts of the world

Okay, it's unanimous, a swim this afternoon

Elephant seal - either a young one or female, I'm not sure

We tried for a second time to get into Gold Harbour and this time we were successful. There was a little bit of drizzle and our group would go on land first and do the zodiac cruising after breakfast. So a 5:30 wake up call let us know that we would be called at 6am and as we were first I got down there a few minutes earlier to get started as I can’t fit my socks on with my slip on shoes. We are getting dressed and undressed 2-3 times a day. Two pairs of socks as the boots you choose must fit two pairs and if you only wear one it’s a little too roomy. Although there was drizzle it was a balmy 8°C, so no jumper but my full jacket – inner and outer. A beanie to keep the wind and rain from messing my hair about, gloves, waterproof pants and of course, gumboots. Last to go on is the life jacket. On the Falklands we were able to take them off once we were on land but not so in South Georgia as the bio security is much more strict here. They are heavy and uncomfortable but as we zodiac every time we leave the ship they are mandatory.

If I had to choose only one place to land in South Georgia, this would be it. I'm so glad we gave it a second chance. While trying to find out the name of the glacier, I read a post that said that on one trip they only made three landings during the whole trip due to the weather.

Elephant Seal scratching

Only the male elephant seals have the big bulbous noses, bigger is better apparently

This landing is home to fur seals, elephant seals, King penguin, Gentoo penguin and large gulls. The young fur seals are a bit naughty and I’m sure it’s the male ones that come bouncing up to you in a bluff charge. Like a bear, you have to stop moving and make yourself look big. And when they take no notice of that, as they invariable do, you tell them off and shoo them away. Even with no jumper it became very warm when the sun came out and even though this was the least amount of walking we had to do, we still got hot.

Elephant seal flippers

And so are these, but I wasn't able to find out what the difference was. They look like propellers.

By mid morning it was sill foggy and the temperature had reached 12°C! No need for a jumper. We go for a zodiac trip around the harbour.

Elephant seal and cub

Gentoo Penguin

Elephant seal cub

Gold Harbour

King Penguin shedding the last of it's chick feathers

Shags

Now listen carefully....

Bertrab Glacier

I'm sure this is the glacier that they showed us photos of it from a few decades ago. It went right down to the shoreline so we would not have been able to land on the beach.

Cooper Bay

No landing in Copper bay but a zodiac ride around this unusual area. Norm must have been in his element as the rocks were amazing. There were Pinstrap, King, Gentoo and Macaroni penguins, Shags and fur seals.