Kokerboom - Quiver Trees

Just out of Keetmanshoop is the Quiver Tree forest. There are a couple of trees dotted here and there in other places, but nowhere else is there such a number in one place. They say they were never planted, with the largest trees being between 200-300 years old. The bushmen and Hottentot tribes use to make quivers for their arrows from the tough, pliable bark which is where they get their name.

The forest is located on a private farm, but they also have a campground, guest houses and bungalows so that people can visit their forest. You don’t need to book to camp there which surprised me as most people have this on their itinerary. Just arrive before sunset they said. They charge per person – an entrance fee, a camping fee, a car fee and a night photography permit fee if you want to photograph between sunset and sunrise. We didn't book the night fee that night as we were tired from the drive and it was also a little cold and windy. She also said they had a group of Chinese coming in. Knowing how inconsiderate they can be when it comes to space and taking photos, we opted for the second night. Perfect conditions, no wind and it was even too warm to wear a jumper at the start. We went well prepared with our heavy chairs, jackets, tripods, remote timers, beanie and gloves - it not easy carrying this stuff over rocks even in daylight. I left my backpack with my camera gear at one stage to go searching for the perfect tree and Lindsay kindly moved my tripod and chair closer but it took me ages to find my black backpack amongst the black rocks.

The dates for this trip had been worked around the new moon at this location as Lindsay wanted to do a star trail behind one of the trees. The reason you choose the new moon is so that the moon doesn’t light up the sky. To get the stars going in a circle, you need to point the camera at the southern polar star. Where Lindsay thought this was had the camera pointed towards the town which created light pollution in the photos, worse than a full moon. Looking at photos on the web, clearly other people have managed to capture this type of photo, but it was beyond us. He hadn’t done any practice which could have had a lot to do with it. I’m not interested in star trails as you need to take hundreds of photos over a period of 3-4 hours and I’m not that dedicated.

Lindsay got the best night shot. He has light painted the tree with a torch or you wouldn't see it

We decided to concentrate on the Milky Way, this time I need to do some practice. The galactic centre was high above us, so pretty impossible to get this into any pictures. Our next option was photographing either side. I thought the milky way was only in one place, but there are two places that it intercepts the horizon – think of a rainbow. I was very disappointed with my photos. I don’t actually understand how it’s done. Some people manage to just take one shot. But if you focus for the stars, then your trees are out of focus. Some research and practice is in order. Too long a shutter speed and your stars will be out of focus. Too high an ISO and your picture will be grainy. Focusing in the dark - good luck with that. Trying to work all of this out in the dark is frustrating and difficult.

the forest

There were quite a few photographers there that night but by the time we finished there was no-one around. Getting back to the campsite in the dark with all our gear was awkward as these trees mostly grow in black rock formations, which they like because they retain the heat at night. We had to be careful not to twist an ankle or fall over. It was taking too long to get down from this forest, were we going in the right direction? No! we then remembered the lights of the town which were in the same direction as the campground, we had been walking in the opposite direction!

these love birds are in the campground

A few kilometres up the road is the Giants Playground, also owned by the same people, so your entrance fee allows you to go there too.

Giants Playground: these trees just love rocks

Only a giant could have placed these rocks like this

During the day we went into Keetmanshoop to get some groceries and to get someone to do some soldering on our cigarette lighter plug for the inverter. They took 45 minutes and soldered the wrong wires, so we still can't use it inside the car. Not much in the way of fresh vegetables here, definitely no broccoli. With all our camera gear in the car and camper we usually made sure one of us, usually me, stayed with the car. I reluctantly agreed to KFC for lunch as I knew we wouldn't have time for dinner, but I really really don't like fast food. We needed to buy Lindsay some sunglasses as he hadn't brought any and the gravel roads were really bright in the sunshine and were making his eyes sore. The local optometrist had a very limited range but we managed to find a pair in a sports store.

we chose this campsite away from everyone else, less people driving past you = less sand and dust

The campground is like most of them, lots of dirt, a braai, water, power, rubbish bins. The showers were very small - the width was okay but the depth didn't allow you to turn around. It really makes you wonder who works out the dimensions of these things. Lindsay showered with the curtain open to give hime more space and left his clothes outside on a chair, so there was water everywhere. I washed some clothes before we went into town and hung them on their clothesline putting three pegs on most things as it was really windy. I seriously wondered if everything would be there when we got back, but they were.

Distance between Rooiputs camp and Quiver tree, 2 border crossings - 367km, time estimate 4:30 hrs, how long did it take? I can't remember but at one point I did wonder how long we would have to sit at the boom gate for them to let us out of South Africa. I think they forgot us.

Next stop - Luderitz on the coast.

Distance from Quiver Tree Rest Camp to Luderitz - 352kms on bitumen, 3:20 hrs approx